This is Steve, not Sylvia.

Sylvia is making me write this, and will not let me have dinner until I write at least 50 words. Our trip has been remarkable. This is a complex country. Jerusalem is unbelievable in its vitality and vibrancy, and in its beauty. Muslims, Christians and Jews live side by side, walking in and out through each other's neighborhoods - and as long as there are all those Israelis with machine guns walking around, they all get along wonderfully. Talk about brotherly love. The ruins from the Roman period throughout this country are incredible - including the Temple Mount - who was the Jewish King under Rome. Yesterday Sylvia and I climbed Masada to see more of Herod's ruins. Two palaces rising high above the Dead Sea. The place is in ruins, of course, and I believe it would be a great place for condos - and perhaps a Starbucks.

Last night was the start of Israel's Independence Day. There were fireworks (which can be really f**king scarey in a country in which "boom, boom, boom" is not normally a harbinger of something good), and there was a huge festival in downtown Jerusalem, with the streets blocked off (by those guys and gals with the Uzi's), and once inside the secure area, there were bands playing (including a Hebrew Hip Hop stage). Independence Day follows Israel's Memorial Day. Everything is closed, and the television shows only the faces and stories of those lost to war and terrorism. I haven't said anything about the Dead Sea - an incredible source of beauty products (leave it to the Jews), and a great place to get wrapped in mud, have a massage, and float. What's gay life like in Israel - suffice it to say, "what happens in Israel, stays in Israel" unless of course you plaster it all over a blog. I understand that Sylvia will now allow me to eat dinner, so I'll sign off. Be well.